Tropical Gardeners' Delight - APROVACA Orchid Center

This morning during a delicious breakfast at Artash (a neat little breakfast/lunch place in El Valle) with our friend Aaron, Tom and I had the pleasure of meeting Cathy and Dave, a couple from Wisconsin. Cathy and Dave were visiting Panama, and El Valle, for the third (or fourth?) time... guess they are pretty fond of this place!

After breakfast, Tom and I chatted with our new friends for a while, and ended up catching a ride over to APROVACA Orchid Center with them. Tom and I are taking our time about seeing the sights of our new home, so we had not yet visited APROVACA. Since Cathy and Dave had already visited the orchid center and had other sights to see, they dropped us off with promises to see us again someday in El Valle.

 

According to the center's website, APROVACA "is the Spanish acronym for The Association of Orchid Producers of El Valle and Cabuya. Founded in 2001, we are a small grassroots association dedicated to the conservation of native Panamanian orchid species in danger of extinction. The local orchids are facing two main problems: deforestation and poaching. The trees in the surrounding mountains are being cut down, and since most orchids are epiphytes (meaning they grow on trees), this practice deprives orchids of their natural habitat. The act of poaching orchids to take home or sell at market has also been a major problem in El Valle de Anton. Although illegal, it is still commonplace. "

Upon our arrival and payment of $2.00 each, we were greeted by our guide, Liza, an Austrian volunteer on holiday. Liza works for an eco-tour company in her "regular life" and was an engaging and knowledgeable host. Many of the workers at the center are volunteers, while some are paid workers, and they all share an interest in preserving these unique and beautiful plants. The center has recently added some hostel accommodations as an additional profit center - it is only $12.00 per night to stay in one of these rooms.

Our tour started off with an explanation of how orchids are classified in the horticultural realm. Orchids are perennial herbs, and can either be tuberous or epiphitic. In warm and humid climates, many orchids are epiphitic, which means that they do not need to be rooted in soil. Instead, they have a special epidermis which absorbs moisture and nutrients from the air. This is why orchids do so well in El Valle's cloud forest climate - the air is moist, and the breezes keep the air around the plants circulating. In some cases, orchids are parasitic, and will make their home on a host tree and draw nutrients from that host (which may even be dead).


Liza showed us this little "nursery" of sorts for miniature orchids. The variety was astounding. Orchids that are kept in pots must always have plenty of circulation for the roots, hence the holes in all of the pots. Moisture is carefully controlled, with mulches of shredded coconut husks, bark and even bits of Styrofoam.

Here is an example of an orchid growing happily on its host tree. Those long dangling things are developing leaves.
 
 

Who knew that vanilla is an orchid species? Well, I didn't... until now.  Below is an example of a vanilla plant, winding around its host tree.
 
 

APROVACA is about more than orchids - there are many other types of plants that are indigenous to the region on display. It was a pleasure to stroll the paths and learn the names of the plants in our new home.

 

 

That tall plant with the large red flower is called "ornamental ginger."
 
 

Below is a good example of a parasitic type of orchid. The host tree is dead. However, this orchid will have no worries about surviving. Those long, carrot-shaped bodies are storehouses of nutrients that the plant has collected.
 
 

 

This plant grows near our house, and it's one I had never seen before. I was really happy to learn its name (Nazareno), and that it produces lovely flowers.
 
 

The center has a small plot of vegetables, as well as medicinal plants. The herbs and medicinals are offered for sale. We happily acquired lemongrass and rosemary (called "Romero" here). There are mangoes, ornamental bananas, pineapples...
 
 

gourds...
 
 

 

...and this interesting plant, called a calabash! In Africa, the spongy guts are used to make soup Here in Panama, the plant is cut in half, hollowed out and each half is used as a bowl or planter:
 
 

 

Ferns of all kinds are abundant and grow quite large in El Valle.
 
 

Below is an example of  one of many types of bromeliads that inhabit the center. Bromeliads are members of a plant family known as Bromeliaceae The family contains over 3,000 described species in approximately 56 genera. Like orchids, many bromeliads are epiphytic. The most well known bromeliad is the pineapple! The family contains a wide range of plants including some very un-pineapple like members such as Spanish Moss (which is neither Spanish nor a moss). Other members resemble aloes or yuccas while still others look like green, leafy grasses. Many have brilliantly colored flowers, like this one:
 
 

 

Believe it or not, gardeners of North American climes, this is a caladium!
 
 

All types of birds and butterflies like to hang around APROVACA. This bird is called a "sangre de toro" (blood of the bull), and I was thrilled to learn its name. We have been feeding a group of these in our yard since we moved to El Valle. Extremely common here, they are also very beautiful.
 

 

Colorful hibiscus flowers attract the hummingbirds...
 
 

A tour of APROVACA can last an hour or several. For very serious orchid aficionados, this center is a treasure trove of information. Even for everyday gardeners like us, it is a must see for visitors to the cloud forest of Central Panama, who desire an understanding of the plant life of the region.

Lady's Slipper

Sunday Worship -- El Valle Style

As seems to happen quite a lot in El Valle, Tom and I had a fortunate meeting this Saturday while having coffee at the local cafe. We were blessed to meet Aaron, a native of Dallas, Texas, and his adorable daughter, Avalyn.

Aaron told us that he, his wife Janet, 7 year old son Mylon, and Avalyn (aged 4), had come to Panama a year ago to live. As the son of Christian missionaries who had lived in Africa and other far flung locales, Aaron wanted to give his own children the same exposure to cultures other than their own.  It was excellent timing that we got to meet Aaron on this day, as he explained that the family would be leaving Panama in a month to return to Texas.

After some conversation about El Valle, Panama in general and where the best restaurants are, it came up that Aaron and Janet were helping to lead a church that met in El Valle. He invited us to attend a worship gathering of about 40 other Christians, including other expats, Panamanians and Kuna Yala people.

We immediately accepted the invitation, along with the offer of a ride to the El Valle Bread Club. The El Valle Bread Club is run by a German family, and Charles makes some of the most delicious bread and croissants that we have ever tasted.  Each week, families place their orders via email, and on Saturday mornings, they show up at Charles' home to pick up the bread. With everyone showing up at about the same time, it turns into quite the social event, with Charles' wife putting out samples of bread, her delectable herb butter, hummus and fruit spread. It was here that we met Janet, Aaron's wife, along with Mylon, their son. (Aaron, upon arriving at the Bread Club and seeing the amazing spread, knew that he would be in trouble if he didn't run home to fetch Janet!)

Before Tom and I left with our motherlode of baguettes, croissants and assorted artisan breads, we firmed up the plans to ride to church with Aaron and his family in the morning. We then scurried home to savor those croissants!

Best buddies! (Aaron and Janet in the background.)

We arrived at the home of David and Lisa, 2 mission workers from the US who were back in the States for the week. David and Lisa rent a lovely home and grounds which used to house a candy factory, and the large shed at the rear of the property was more than ample for the worship gathering. We quickly set up the simple space with chairs, handed out song books, and in short order the people began to arrive.

Walking to church.

The worship gathering takes place in this old candy factory.

We were introduced to every man, woman and child who arrived, and given a brief run down as to who was related to whom. The families all sat down in the circle, and Janet led everyone in song; old favorites such as "Holy, Holy, Holy" were sung in Spanish, and then sometimes in English, and even in Kuna Yala! It was quite an experience to be singing Christian songs in Spanish, let alone Kuna. Cleo, a church member who is Kuna, did the translations for the songbook. Such a gifted young man; fluent in English, Spanish and Kuna, as well as being a father of 5.

Communion.

The message for the day came from 1Corinthians 12, which talks about how we are all members of the same body - the Body of Christ - though we are each individual members. And Aaron broke the news that he and the family would be leaving El Valle and returning to Texas. His eloquent, heartfelt expressions of appreciation for each and every person there (he called them all out by name, and gave thanks for them) put tears of melancholy, and yet joy, in almost every eye, including ours.

Getting ready to sing more songs after communion.

When the worship gathering concluded, it was time for the children to have their Sunday School lesson. I was reminded of my Sunday School kids back in Tennessee, and how sweet and bright they were. Hat's off to Janet for being able to conduct just one class for kids ranging in age from 4 years through 14!

Aaron and Janet's adorable children, Avalyn and Mylon, with a pal.

Tom and I feel amazingly blessed to have been invited to share this special worship time with our new friends, and that we were able to meet Aaron and Janet and their wonderful kids before they left El Valle. We wish them  many great blessings as they start a new chapter in their own adventure!

After church, it's off to the mercado for shaved ice!

Day Trip to Playa Coronado and Gorgona

This is a tale of getting lost, finding out and making a mini-adventure out of a shopping trip to "town."

Besides having some funny parts, this post might also prove helpful for those who are seriously considering a move to Panama and are interested in such practical matter as: "How do we get around?, "Can I buy mayonnaise down there?" and "How much is the rum?"

Our story begins on a Tuesday morning; needing to bring the infamous broken laptop to Punta G Computers (the place that was recommended to us by "everyone" in Panama) and assay the big, fancy supermarkets for items such as meats (for Tom), fancy cheese (pour moi), and - dare I dream? - Hellmann's mayonnaise, we caught a ride to Coronado with our land-persons, Michele and Ken.

The plan: to compare prices at all of the grocery stores, then grab a cab to La Playa, explore the beach, come back to town by cab, and then buy all of our groceries and take the bus back to El Valle. While we did end up accomplishing much of this, it did not go exactly as planned.... 

The 40 minute ride down the mountain from our volcano-crater home was winding and scenic, and before we knew it, we were at the Coronado Mall. We immediately took note that a McDonald's McNifica burger would run us about $1.59 each, should we feel the need to partake in some fast food (we did not, but we reserve the right to have a taste of the USA if we need to!). We then took the dastardly Dell up to nearby Punta G Computers, where a cheerful, English-speaking lady named Ruby took the demon off our hands with a payment of about $25 for diagnostic services. (Ultimately, the diagnosis was "dead hard drive", and we are having Punta G install a new (bigger) hard drive, Windows and virus protection for a bit less than this would cost in the States.)

With that bit of business behind us, we crossed the Pan-Americana Highway to the new mall that is still being finished. This mall houses the much-hyped El Machetazo store, and some of the hype is indeed warranted. It's basically a grocery store on the first floor with 2 upper floors of toys, housewares, electronics, clothing and "what-not." Sort of like a Target store in the States (but NOT Target...the Conway stores in Panama City are owned by Target). So what's the big deal, right?  Well, for ex-pats who yearn for the modern grocery shopping experience, complete with Hellmann's mayo, good quality meats and "luxury" items - not to mention armed guards at the front of the store (de riguer in Panama) - this place is PARADISE.

Before our faithful readers point out our previous ramblings on this very blog about how Tom and I want to learn to live with less and consume less, there are times that we are just comforted to know that if we want this experience, this mayo, this CHEESE (yes, I like cheese), it is here. And for the record, we did come home with 3 logs of herbed chevre, some wine, a spatula (our well-equipped rental cottage was lacking this essential implement), some art supplies (!) and POUNDS of various meat. No mayonnaise; alas, I had already bought some at the Super Mini Centro Hong Kong Market in El Valle, and thus could not justify buying more.

Now for the million dollar question - how are the prices? First thing to know about shopping ANYWHERE is that you need to know what things cost typically. For example, in our little town of El Valle, a pound of papas (potatoes) can run  .65/lb up to .95/lb, depending upon how close the market is to the "tourist" section of town. This is not considerably less than the cost of potatoes in the US. When you get into a store like El Machetazo, the cost of food can be close to US prices. There are some big, IMPORTANT (to some) exceptions. Booze is much cheaper here, even in the "fancy stores." Regular white table wine (they do have bottles, not just boxes!), runs about $2.15 (the "B" in the pictures means "Balboa" -this is what the dollar is called in Panama) for 2 liters.  Liquor is also cheap by comparison to the US; this is a local brand of rum, priced at $3.89!

After El Machetazo, Tom and I had a quick lunch at Don Lee (think "down-scale" Pei Wei), which was cheap and good. Then we headed back over to Coronado Mall to check out Rey and Super 99, the 2 main grocery chains in Panama (the family of Panama's President, Ricardo Martinelli, owns Super 99). We found a lot of items in these stores that we were used to "back home," and made sure to grab a coveted bottle of Hershey's chocolate syrup for Tom, who'd been jonesing for it!

Bottom line: if you move to Panama, and shop at "fancy" markets and buy imported foods, Panama will not be a bargain for you. If you go "criollo" (local), and shop the mom and pop stores (look for the words, "super" and "mini") and Super 99, you will do better. Eat local foods - fruits and veggies in season, rice (don't ask me how to cook it perfectly; I am still trying to figure that out), fish - and you'll be healthier and richer. Try and stay away from the sugar-y juices that Panamenos love!

Tom found a steampunk-style Iron Man statue in the El Machetazo toy department!

In the Coronado Mall there is also a Dollar Store - the presence of which, we hope, will entice Tom's parents to visit us! This place is crammed to the limit with unnecessary plastic objects, and even some useful stuff. Tom didn't find any useful stuff.

After the inspections of the supermarkets and such were completed, we stopped into the Mailboxes Etc. store and spoke to the owner about their services. For those who don't know this yet - not every country in the world has door to door mail service, and Panama is one of them. Heck, many places in Panama (such as our house) don't even have street addresses! When we tell folks where we live, it is usually, "the casita in the front yard of the big green house on the road next to the Yin Market; the house that Doreen used to own but now Michele does." So, there is a dilemma that exists for those who need to receive mail, which is usually resolved by renting a post office box. Since Tom and I are currently having the tiny amount of mail that we receive sent to a friend's house in the States, and we will be apprised of anything "urgent," we didn't feel the need to rent a PO box just yet. In the unlikely event that we start ordering stuff from Amazon and EBay, we will have to revisit this. We did find out that if you only order things every now and then, Mailboxes Etc. will let you have it shipped to them on a "by the piece" basis.

And now the fun begins! After grabbing a refreshing libation at the Sunset Grill and Bar, we jumped into a taxi on the road that "appeared" to lead to the playa. Those who know me know that I tend to conduct careful due diligence before travelling to places - on a recent trip to Greece with my daughter, I researched every grain of sand on every island we visited before we left the US. Those who REALLY know me, know that I have a mischievous side, and sometimes I like to just "get lost." Tom probably thought I had studied the map and knew exactly where "la playa" was, but he quickly learned that I had no idea where we were going. The long, bumpy ride through residential neighborhoods and the cackling laughter of the driver and his front seat passenger soon revealed to us that the taxi driver had no idea where "la playa" was either, but was up for some fun.

As we rounded a corner, we spied a bit of sky and water in the distance. There was an alleyway leading between 2 houses that led to the promised land! "Aqui, aqui," we exclaimed, and hopped out of the cab. Headed in the direction of the golden sand of Playa Coronado, we figured that we'd take a nice stroll on the beach, dip our toes in the water, and take those kinds of photos that make the folks "back home" green with envy. After that, we'd duck into one of the many resorts that we just knew would be beachside, have a cold drink and maybe a nosh, and then have the door man hail us a taxi.

After the required rituals of beach frolicking, toe dunking and picture taking were completed, we set off on our stroll toward what appeared to be luxury hotels in the distance.

Looks good so far... except that these are all private homes on the left (see photo above), and continued access to beach was blocked by rocks. And the beach was quite deserted for such a lovely day, so we figured: well, the best thing to do would be to go back to the road and try to find the "resorts" from the front. After a long, sweaty walk down a street with lovely seaside homes, we arrived at the Sands resort and cut through the property to the beach. As we strolled down the beach for quite some time, looking for that perfect resort at which to alight, we noticed that the sand was gradually getting blacker and blacker; I knew that Gorgona had black sand, but we couldn't have walked to Gorgona... or could we..? Seeing a fancy staircase leading up to what appeared to be a posh hotel, we decided that this would be the place to stop. Arriving at the top of the stairs, we saw tanned people lounging by the pool, a lovely bar area, children playing in the pool and uniformed waiters attending to the needs of all.

As we sashayed across the pool deck, looking for all the world like we "belonged", a gentleman addressed us from his lounge chair. "Can I help you?," he asked. To which my dear husband, in a slightly veiled smartly-alecky tone, replied, "Why, is this your house or something?" [Tom sez: "Hey, it was hot out and I was frustrated..!] I can't make this stuff up, folks... of course this guy (a New Yorker, no less) replied, "Yes, it actually is."

With feet in gaping mouths, we were speechless. The man got up from his chair and asked if he could get us each a glass of water, which we accepted gratefully before we slunk away, wishing we had remembered to pack those cloaks of invisibility.

On down the now-black sand beach we continued, in the direction of three naked, laughing children, and when it become apparent that we were at the end of the world and there would be no resort (those tall buildings are condos that are still being built -argghh!), no cold drink, NO TAXI, we headed off the beach and down a local road.

Happy children!

Gorgona sands.

As we wandered with wet sandy feet down the rural streets, we were indeed "lost," but not overly concerned. We knew that we could muster enough Spanish to ask a person (should we encounter one!) how to get back to the Pan-American Highway, and a bus. For a while, we walked with only the chickens and country dogs as company. Eventually, we came to a fork in the road - which we took. A few buildings (one with the bible verse John 3:16 beautifully painted on the side of it), kids on bikes, people relaxing in hammocks, even a car or 2, appeared - but no buses or taxis yet. Seeing a "Super Mini" store, we stopped in for a cold drink and asked the young lady inside for directions to the Pan-Americana. With hand motions and the few words we did understand, she helped us get on our way. Another young lady we met on the road communicated that it was very far to the highway, but that a bus would come soon.  We walked and walked, and sure enough - a bus came and on we jumped. 5 minutes and 30 cents later, we were at the highway, where we grabbed another bus right back to Coronado, and the meats and cheeses of El Machetazo.

After all of the shopping, walking, self-inflicted embarrassment, lamentable speaking of Spanish to smiling, helpful strangers, the 40 - minute bus ride back to El Valle was a welcome respite!

Sometimes it's ok to get lost -- you never know what you might find out.

For God so loved the world, that He gave His only begotten Son, that whosoever believeth in Him should not perish, but have everlasting life. John 3:16 KJV