Street Art - Panama Style

As an artist, my eye is always drawn to those expressions of light and color created by others. And, if it is readily available (as opposed to being behind the doors of a museum or gallery), all the better. This is why I have become a "street art junkie!" The discovery of art in unexpected places is a delightful treat to me, so I was thrilled to wander the art filled streets of Casco Viejo (the old quarter of Panama City, also known as San Felipe and Casco Antiguo). We actually have visited "the Casco" a number of times since arriving in Panama, as we can't seem to get enough of the quirky streets, ruins in various stages of restoration, unparalleled people-watching and mojitos at Vieja Havana. See this post from January, 2012, which describes our first impressions of the Casco.

Street artists are a rare and wonderful breed - creating just for the joy of it (usually), knowing that their art might be of a transient nature if the owner of the building doesn't see the value of the piece. Sometimes the property owner happily offers up his enticingly blank canvas of a wall for adorning, and the piece has a legitimate "home." It is often those works that fall into the former category that are the most exhilarating, just because of the illicit nature of their being.

Whatever the story may be, I enjoy photographing these works that might be whitewashed over tomorrow so that I can enjoy them in the future. I am sharing them with our readers in hopes that you will enjoy them as well, and if you would like to know where exactly in Casco Viejo they are/were located, see the captions.

And, please, fellow street art aficionados of Panama City, do share your own discoveries so I can hunt those down too!

I call these the "Pollera Ladies," as they are depicted in traditional Panamanian pollera dresses. This series is found on Avenue A, near Calle 12 or 13 Oeste (just as you get into the "less dicey part" of Avenue A).

There are 3 Pollera Ladies, and they appear to be having an animated conversation.

Another Pollera Lady, just up the block from the 3 "close-ups." This one shows the full ensemble.

This one is also on Avenue A. I'm not sure if the red splotches were originally part of the piece or added later, but they look like gunshot wounds, which I believe enhances it.

This one is obviously a stencil, and there are several of them around the side streets of the Plaza de la Catedral. I just love the intense look on this guy's face, and with his one good eye!

At a construction site of Plaza de la Catedral, you will find this magnificent Peter Max-ish fish.

An event that occurred last year - but still an awesome graphic, and it's DALI's face!

Near a construction site off Plaza Simon Bolivar... the same artist who did the Pollera Ladies has graced the side of a dumpster with these zaftig mermaids.

On the sidewalk outside of the school at Plaza Simon Bolivar, there are all sorts of creatures etched into the concrete. I love this one, as it reminds me of my favorite riddle: What did the snail say when he rode on the snail's back? Give up? The snail said, "Wheeeeeeeee!"

In Plaza Simon Bolivar, a leg grows out of a planter. You can ponder this dangling limb while enjoying an espresso or wine at a cafe on the square. Incidentally, you will be about a block from the President's house, and a great view across the bay, so photo ops abound.

And finally... here is a piece that exemplifies the old art school saying, "Less is More..."

I hope you enjoyed this virtual tour of the street art of Casco Viejo. If you happen to find yourself there, be sure to stop at Vieja Havana Bar, off the Plaza Simon Bolivar, have a refreshing mojito and enjoy the eclectic collection of paintings and photos on the walls. The Cuban music might even get you on your feet for some salsa dancing!

Holi Hai! Phagwa -- Suriname Style!!

Inquisitive little girl celebrating Holi in Suriname.

One of the highlights of our Suriname trip was the fact that we were able to celebrate the Hindu Holi festival ("the Festival of Colors") with the Surinamese people and other travelers. Holi (or "Phagwa"), a spring festival, is celebrated at the end of the winter season on the last full moon day of the lunar month Phalguna (February/March), (Phalgun Purnima), which usually falls in the later part of February or March. Celebrations typically last for 2 days, and a major activity on the main day ("Dhuli") is the throwing of scented, colored powders on each other.

It might confuse the reader as to why we would be in a South American country, where Dutch is the official language, celebrating a Hindu holiday. This is one of the things that makes Suriname so unique! Due to the abolishment of slavery, workers were needed in the New World...this brought indentured servants from India, Indonesia, China and many other lands. Those immigrants, along with former slaves ("maroons"), joined the indigenous Amazonian Indian tribes and Dutch to make up the melting pot of Suriname. Dhuli is a national holiday, with all businesses closing, and everyone joins in the fun.

Here is what  Wikipedia has to say about Holi:

"One of Holi’s biggest customs is the loosening strictness of social structures, which normally include age, sex, status, and caste. Holi closes the wide gaps between social classes and brings Hindus together. Together, the rich and poor, women and men, enjoy each other’s presence on this joyous day. Additionally, Holi lowers the strictness of social norms. No one expects polite behavior; as a result, the atmosphere is filled with excitement and joy.

Every year, thousands of Hindus participate in the festival Holi. The festival has many purposes. First and foremost, it celebrates the beginning of the new season, spring. It also has a religious purpose, commemorating many events that are present in Hindu mythology. Although it is the least religious holiday, it is probably one of the most exhilarating ones in existence. During this event, participants hold a bonfire, throw colored powder at each other, and celebrate wildly.

Originally, it was a festival that commemorated good harvests and the fertile land. In addition to celebrating the coming of spring, Holi has even greater purposes. Hindus believe it is a time of enjoying spring's abundant colors and saying farewell to winter. Furthermore, Holi celebrates many religious myths and legends."

To prepare for our observation of the Phagwa festivities, we first had to find out where the parties would be held. You won't find them at the Hindu temples -- those are sacred places, where the Holi revelry would be inappropriate. In speaking with an Indian lady and perusing the local newspaper, we learned that the biggest party in town was being hosted by Parbo Bier, and would be held at Flamboyant Park. So, with some Phagwa powder and baby wipes in hand, we set off by taxi to the site. (Note: we had been advised that if we were too much of "a mess" after the party, taxi drivers might refuse to bring us back to our hotel. We prepared for this by buying some cheap rain ponchos!)

Upon our arrival at the event (admission: Free!), we were anointed with Phagwa powder by gate attendants,  who gave us each a container of the color of our choice. Blue for Tom, yellow for me, to add to the pink we had already brought. We watched as large tanker trucks pumped water into inflatable swimming pools, to which various colored dyes were then added. A large number of water guns were stacked up, and they were quickly filled with colored water and put to use by merry makers young and old!

For those who preferred to stay dry, being sprinkled with the colored powders by strangers and listening to music was the order of the day. There was, of course, Parbo Bier and Coca-Cola for sale, and Indian food (we had bami goreng - Indonesian stir fried noodles - and spicy chicken), and more than one group of revelers managed to smuggle in bottles of the hard liquor of their choice. Tom and I "made the rounds",  meeting all sorts of people, including Surinamese of every origin, Dutch students, U.S. Coast Guard officers who just happened to be in town, young, old and in-between.

By the end of the day, we were blue, pink, green, yellow and orange...and smiling from ear to ear. And to top it off, we were able to find a taxi willing to take us back to town!

Music is a major part of the Phagwa Party

Having fun with Phagwa powder (gulal) and water!

There's always a yellow one in the group!

How can you keep a straight face when your hair is blue?

We met these U.S. Coast Guard officers visiting Suriname and ready for the festivities.

Young artist hard at work.

The dance floor is the place to be.

Thrilled to be here!

How we looked by the end of the day!!

Rainforest Fun in Suriname

Pretty parrot at Johan Margaretha Plantage.

Still in steamy Suriname, enjoying the many sights, sounds and tastes of this amazing place....

A few days ago, we took a day trip from Paramaribo up to Leonsberg (near the Atlantic coast) and boarded a small boat that brought us up the Suriname River to where it meets the Commewijne River, and then both rivers merge with the Atlantic Ocean. Our boat was filled with Dutch tourists on a quest to see the pink dolphins who frequent the area, and indeed, we spotted quite a few of the beautiful creatures as they jumped out of the water, seemingly to entertain us. The guide from Waterproof Tours, Nalini, was an exceptional host for all aboard, serving wine, beer, rum and other drinks, and snacks, as we left the dolphins for the next stop.

Being out on the water in Suriname is a lovely experience; however, where the rivers meet the sea, the water is brown and brackish, so visibility into the water is nil. There is always a gentle breeze to counteract the humidity, and the green of the jungle shoreline has a calming effect.

After a tranquil trip down the Commewijne, our boat docked at the plantage ("Plantation") Johan Margaretha- really just a tiny settlement on the river. Tom and I went for a walk around the main street (a dirt track), where we met some smiling children, a friendly baby goat, a squirrel monkey and a preening parrot. The only vehicles in the village were motorbikes and one small pick up truck, so it is a peaceful place indeed.

We were sorry to leave the plantage, but we were hoping to view a nice sunset out on the water, so we bid farewell to Johan Margaretha. Alas, there would be no magnificent sunset for us this time, but instead we had delightful conversations with the other passengers on the boat (almost all Dutch people speak excellent English), and a few more drinks!

Here are some photos from our day trip - hope you enjoy them!

From the pier at Leonsberg, Suriname.

Abundant coconuts.

A river boat waits for passengers.

Village girls share a bike.

Tom is meeting a baby goat, while the squirrel monkey vies for attention.

My new friend, a baby goat.

Squirmy baby wants to play with the parrot!

Another day on the river comes to an end.

Suriname Food Porn!!

For those who are not familiar with Suriname, it is a food lover's paradise - for taste, variety and price. Of course Suriname boasts lush rainforests, exotic wildlife and cultural delights...however, for what many people consider to be an under-developed third world nation, the food choices and quality are mind-boggling.

When you think about how Suriname came to be, with so many cultures throwing their contributions into the proverbial melting pot, it's easy to understand the variety. People from Java, China, India, Holland, Africa came to this place on the northeast coast of South America that was already inhabited by indigenous Amer-Indians, bringing oriental spices and cooking methods to combine with local foods.  What has resulted is "Surinamese Food", and while we are by no means experts, we are having a great time discovering it!

Chicken satay at Torarica Hotel; 3 skewers of meat marinated in delicious peanut sauce, with some bread to soak up the excess. A bit of curried cabbage slaw and prawn crackers complete the meal.

Since arriving in Suriname, we have become enamored with satay! This dish, which is believed to have originated in Indonesia, is offered in many restaurants here, and is typically served with combinations of prawn crackers, pickled onions or curried cabbage slaw, and a lovely lightly spicy mayonnaise. Some places get fancy and give you roasted potatoes and a bit of salad, and the little basic "mom and pop" shop will give you just 3 skewers of delicious chicken for around SRD 7.00 (about $2.50 USD).

Zus & Zo's version..the works!

One of the finest restaurants in Paramaribo is De Waag, which is located in the old weigh house right on the river. The building itself is historic and intriguing, as is the artwork it holds. When we visited, I enjoyed a chicken tagliatelle dish with mushrooms, olives and a delicious sun-dried tomato cream sauce.

It's rare that I can finish a pasta dish this size, but I made an exception in this case!

Also at De Waag, which bills itself as an "Italian" restaurant, ribs are on offer. Tom went for these (there are veggies underneath!), and even had some to spare which he shared with an Australian mining exec named Steve who was at the next table:

Many of the dishes served in Suriname are stir-fried, like this combination of beans, almonds, chicken and mushrooms over rice from Zus & Zo Cafe. Very healthy, and delicious!

If you come to Suriname and find yourself overwhelmed by the exotic food options, or just miss home, you can find Burger King and McDonald's here in Paramaribo.The menu is very similar, but veggie burgers, wraps and more chicken selections are available here to cater to the local tastes.

This is by no means the end of the "food porn" that will come from this blog, as we have still not tried Indian roti or any local Chinese fare. We will also be visiting the famous Central Market and looking at the fruits, veggies, spices, fish and other goodies there. But now, it's time to head out to a cafe for an espresso!

Suriname!!

 

Paramaribo, Suriname

For the next few weeks, we are taking a break from Panama to explore the South American nation of Suriname. This isn't a place that is included in the typical backpackers' itinerary, other than the Dutch, who travel to the country in large numbers. Since we arrived in Suriname a few days ago, we haven't met a single fellow American. No Brits or Canadians either - thus far - but we have no doubt that we will by the end of this trip!

Along the north coast of South America, Suriname is a small but ethnically diverse country. Most people are descendants of African slaves and Indian or Indonesian servants brought over by the Dutch to work in agriculture. Suriname, formerly known as Dutch Guiana, gained independence in 1975. There has been political turmoil for approximately the past 30 years, with the last 5 years bringing relative economic and political stability. Most Surinamers live in the narrow, northern coastal plain, near the capital city of Paramaribo (often abbreviated by Surinamers as "Parbo").

One of the main reasons that we wanted to come to Suriname, apart from it being so far off the "gringo trail,"  is to see first hand how folks in such an incredibly diverse society can "get along" so well. One of the most famous examples of this is that here in Paramaribo sits the largest mosque in South America, right alongside the  Neveh Shalom Synagogue (Hebrew : בית הכנסת נווה שלום‎) which is the only synagogue of the Ashkenazi community in Suriname.

Neveh Shalom Synagogue, with the mosque in the background.

Aside from religious diversity, there is an incredible number of languages spoken in Suriname, with the official one being Dutch. Other languages spoken  include several Amerindian languages, several Creole languages, Suriname Javanese and Sarnami Hindustani. Most people also speak English, and speak it well. We met some young people who explained that all school children must learn English AND Spanish before graduating. The primary creole language is Sranan Tongo, and it is language of "the street".

Access to the interior rain forest and forest people is limited, but there are guided tours into the interior. Tom and I will either visit an indigenous Indian village, or a Marroon village (The Marroons are former slaves who escaped from the plantations and formed their own communities in the rainforest.). For the past few days, we have been exploring Parbo, which has street after street of beautifully restored colonial Dutch buildings (and some still in progress of restoration). The historic inner city area of Parbo was declared a UNESCO World Heritage site in 2002, and we are currently staying in a historic building (the Alberto Alberga guesthouse on Lim-A-Postraat. If you forget the fact that there is no hot water or air conditioning here (which, sadly, Tom is unable to..!), it is a very charming place! With temperatures hovering at about 85 degrees Farenheit during the day, and not much cooler in the evening, we are truly appreciating the presence of the small swimming pool here.

For the rest of this series of posts about Suriname, we will report on the food (it is varied and it is excellent!), the culture and the sights. Just to give our readers an idea as to where in the world we are, below are some maps.

As shown by the purple marker on the map below, Paramaribo, Suriname is located on the northern coast of South America:

Here is a map showing Suriname nestled in between Guyana and French Guiana, just north of Brazil:

Stay tuned for more about this fascinating place!!