Hiking La India Dormida...or How I Learned to Love My Ample Backside

La India Dormida - The Sleeping Indian Girl

The Legend of La India Dormida goes like this:

Flor del Aire was the daughter of Urraca, the most successful Chief in Panama fighting against the Conquistadores. It was her misfortune to fall in love with one of the Spanish soldiers. Yavari, one of the strongest fighters of her tribe, vied for her affection. When she did not return his love, in despair, he jumped to his death from a mountain top before the Princess' eyes. In sorrow, Princess Flor del Aire left her home and never saw the Spaniard again.

She crossed mountains and valleys bitterly weeping over her fate. Above the beaches of the Caribbean, she fell dead, looking back at the beloved mountains where she had been born. The mountains were so touched by this sad love story they decided to form the shape of the Princess, and that is how the India Dormida arose.

From the El Valle de Anton website

Based on Presbitero José Noto, De Historia de El Valle de Anton
Borrowed by El Rugidor Vallero

Besides being the subject of this evocative legend, the mountain that looms over El Valle is a popular hiking destination for residents and day-trippers. For the indigenous populations, however, the trails that criss-cross the mountain are vital routes between homes and jobs, the market, school and church.

Tom and I decided one morning that we would head up to an area of town known as La Pintada, home to the Petroglyphs, and one of the trail heads for the hike to the top of La India. Our goal was NOT to climb the mountain - it didn't even cross our minds - but merely to go and check out the mysterious drawings on the rocks. I mention this fact in the hopes that you will cut us some slack when I also mention that 1.) we didn't bring any water, and 2.) I was wearing my Keen hiking SANDALS and not my brand new Keen hiking BOOTS. Tom was wearing his Keen boots, prepared man that he is. And actual hiking socks!

Oh yes... and I was carrying a purse. With both of my Nikon cameras in it, but still... a purse.

Upon arriving at the site (take the "Dona Lucy" bus from downtown El Valle - it says, "La Pintada - Capirita" on the front), we paid our entrance fee. Being "Extranjeros" - foreigners - and not eligible for a discount for being neither jubilados (retirees) nor ninos (children), we paid the highest possible fee of $1.25 each. After a leisurely walk up the sloped sidewalk and over a lovely swimming hole occupied by frolicking local children, we quickly arrived at the enormous rock upon which the petroglyphs appear. While no one really knows who made these drawings or what they represent, there are theories that these are maps of caves, water sources and other landmarks of the area. It's fun to look at the petroglyphs and imagine what kind of people put them there so very long ago.

What you pay at the entrance depends on who you are, where you come from and how old you are...

Petroglyphs... no one is really sure who made these drawings...

or what they mean.

While we were viewing the petroglyphs, our little day trip began to get interesting. An Indian man of about 55 years old, in rubber boots, appeared next to us and began speaking to us in Spanish. We got the basic idea that he wanted to show us some waterfalls up the trail, and even though we knew this probably meant that we were hiring a guide, we nevertheless followed him.

In his rubber boots, the man was way ahead of us in moments and looked back at us to see if we were still following him. As we trudged up the steep trail, huffing and sweating, our guide was leaping along as if the terrain was flat. Whereas we had spent years sitting at desks working on computers, he had been walking up and down this mountain. Tom was having an easier time than I was, having been in better shape to begin with.

We soon arrived at a lovely waterfall and pool, and thought, "Ok, this wasn't so bad, and now we can head back to town for lunch"... but our guide said that just 15 minutes up the trail was another, even more impressive waterfall. "Ok, vamanos," we said and continued our climb. By now, it was obvious that we were going to try to make it all the way to the top.

Tom at a waterfall at the base of the mountain.

So peaceful.

Looking happy before the climb got gnarly!

With our guide ahead of us, we climbed higher and higher, hearing the refreshing sound of falling water as we neared several waterfalls, feeling the mountain breezes, and stopping frequently so I could catch my breath! By now, Tom was carrying my purse (in a very heroic, manly way!), and as we were passed numerous times by old men with loads of vegetables, building materials and firewood, I began to wonder if it wasn't a good time to admit defeat and head back down the mountain. Just then, we looked up to see an elderly, yet very fit, American woman coming down the trail. She told us that it was still about 45 minutes hike to the top, and yes, it was worth it! Then came the clincher... she said the was well over 60, and though the remaining climb was steep and difficult, she had made it. So, it was officially on. We were going to the top, and that was it.

70 year old men go up and down all day long with loads of wood, vegetables...

pipes... anything and everything they need to transport.

A short time later, we came to another rock with petroglyphs on it, which marked the end of the portion of the hike that the guide would accompany us. He explained that we should continue on the trail, and with the blue sky looking close, it seemed that the rest of the hike would be easy. We gave him three and a half balboas (he wanted five), and then continued up the trail, stopping here and there to rest at clear mountain streams and take photographs.

Interesting fungus on a tree.

Vines of flowers climb up the trees and cover the forest floor.

We soon saw a sign up in a tree, and we knew we were getting close to the top. After some clambering over steep parts of the trail, slippery with loose stones, we could see through the trees that there was a little house way up on the top of the mountain.

After hiking for about an hour, we saw this sign welcoming us to La India Dormida. From here, it was another 40 minutes to the top.

Seemingly out of nowhere, this immaculately tended garden appeared on the side of the trail. On the other side of the trail, we saw a couple cutting and burning brush to clear more gardening space. We called to them to ask if we were still on the trail, and hadn't somehow stumbled on their private property. After some back and forth conversation in Spanglish, Tom and I were invited up to la casa by the Lady of the Mountain.

Neat rows of vegetables and herbs grace the mountain top.

As we walked past a shed and chicken coop, the incredible view of El Valle opened up before us. The modest house looked out on a view that made us speechless. As we admired the scene, curious puppies ran over to greet us, and our hostess offered us each a cup of MUCH-needed water from her well, along with 2 large round lemons from her tree. After admiring the many flowers in the garden and thanking our hostess for her kindness, Tom and I set off for the trail back down the mountain.

Our hostess -- this "India" sure wasn't sleeping when we met her!

The view from La India's porch.

One of many chickens who lives on the mountain top.

I had never seen a poinsettia growing in the wild! What a delight to see this in La India's garden.

Bananas almost ready for market... somebody is going to have to carry these down the mountain!

Feeling refreshed and triumphant, we set off down the trail. Almost immediately we (mostly me, in my sandals) realized that the trail that was steep and slippery on the way up, could present the danger of falling on the way down. Always concerned about falling the wrong way and injuring my "bad" knee, I perfected the art of falling on my backside after 2 or 3 slips. I spent the remainder of the trip down the mountain giving silent thanks to Chick-Fil-A and Jersey Mike's Subs for helping to provide the padding that made my falls less painful! As we approached the trail head, we passed swimming holes filled with laughing, splashing children and women going back and forth to the market.

We don't know if we'll will hike up this La India Dormida trail again, but we will certainly seek out other mountain trails near El Valle to explore. Our hope is that we can one day be at least half as fit as the people who use the mountain trails on a regular basis. And, on subsequent hikes, I will be sure to wear my hiking boots and Tom will carry plenty of water..!